Illustration: Olokkhiart
Illustration: Olokkhiart

Scandalising the supply chain

Looking back at 40 years of Bangladesh’s garment industry.

Dina M Siddiqi is a cultural anthropologist who teaches in the School of Liberal Studies at New York University. Her research and writing, grounded in the study of Bangladesh, joins transnational feminist studies, critical development studies, and the anthropology of Islam and labour. She can be reached at dms17@nyu.edu

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(This article is part of our special series 'Rethinking Bangladesh'. You can read the editorial note to the series here.)

At the height of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, the women and men labouring in Bangladesh's garment factories – at least those still in operation – faced a stark choice: starve to death by sheltering in place or risk dying from the virus by returning to the shop floor. This compulsion to work that comes at the risk of exposure to death was not exceptional by any means. Pandemic conditions amplified and made more visible a structural feature built into certain kinds of employment under capitalism, as Sobhi Samour argues in the case of Palestinian labour in Israel. Indeed, over the past three decades, Bangladesh's apparel workers have routinely negotiated various iterations of this conundrum, at times with catastrophic consequences.  So it was that on the morning of 24 April 2013, workers of five factories located in the Rana Plaza building, whose upper floors had been illegally constructed and which had developed serious cracks the day before, calculated the risks of entering – or not – the condemned premises. Under acute pressure from management to meet an international production deadline, fearing dismissal if they refused, and against their better judgment, most workers reluctantly complied. As is well known, over 1100 never made it back home.

Given this contradiction at the heart of global labour, how should we assess the state of Bangladesh's garment industry in this 50th year of independence? What are the common threads that bind the bodies of factory workers during the pandemic in 2020 to those who perished in the Rana Plaza building collapse in 2013?

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