All photos courtesy of Don Messerschmidt
All photos courtesy of Don Messerschmidt

In the presence of the gods

Shaligram pilgrimage in the Nepal Himalaya.

Don Messerschmidt is an anthropologist and writer who has spent several decades studying local cultures, including pilgrimage, in the Nepal Himalaya.

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After discovering my first shaligram, I could find little that described its cultural, mythological, or religious significance until I discovered an entertaining old glossary of colloquial Anglo-Indian words and phrases called Hobson-Jobson, the second edition of which was published by two British colonial scholars in 1903. From a few quotes they collected from notations in obscure writings, some as early as the 16th century, I read that a shaligram is "A pebble having mystic virtues… usually marked by containing a fossil… often adopted as the representative of some god… considered a representative of Vishnoo… found in the Gunduk River," and – most alluring – "it is the only stone that is naturally divine; all others being rendered sacred by incantation."

Beyond such curious ramblings and speculative rumours, however, little else about the shaligram pilgrimage was available to a larger readership until, in recent decades, a few of us anthropologists and others began to write a little more about them.

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Himal Southasian
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