Badge of Nationalism

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"Kalapani"- waters – the term has an ominous ring to it in much of South Asia due to its association with the hellish colonial-era penitentiary in the Andamans. In Nepal, too, the term carried the same connotation despite the country´s having evaded British rule. But not any more. Today, emotions on Kathmandu´s streets run high the moment "Kalapani" comes up.

The place Kalapani lies at the junction where China, India and Nepal meet in Nepal´s northwestern corner (see map). A cursory glance at the map does not reveal anything remarkable about the area. Its only significance, but a strategically important one, is the location of that most valuable of mountain prizes high up on the border with Tibet/ China: a pass in an otherwise impenetrable Himalayan barrier. (This was the same pass that the star-crossed Kailash-Manasarovar pilgrims of India were headed for when they were killed in a landslide at the village of Malpa in Uttar Pradesh´s Pithoragarh district in mid-August this year.)

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