(This article is a part of the web-exclusive series from our latest issue 'At the cost of health'. More from the print quarterly here.)
"They left the mohalla in the dark; they did not tell us where they were leaving for," said a local in Mohalla Sakhi Sarwer, when asked about the whereabouts of the people who were HIV-positive. Located behind the shrine of Shah Sakhi Sarwer, the area is populated by poor working-class families, situated in a small village in the Sulaiman Mountains, 35 kilometres away from Dera Ghazi Khan. Some locals believe that it is only because of the Sufi's blessings that people are able to survive in this barren area. Sarwer, who took refuge in these mountains in the 12th century was killed by his relatives in 1174 CE. His devotees: Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims, all come to the tomb for the annual festival. The festival is famous for its 100 mann (1 mann=40 kilograms) niaz; made of lentils and dry fruits that is distributed among the devotees who come to the Urs from across Pakistan and even beyond the borders. This event, by virtue of its popularity, creates livelihood opportunities for the adjacent neighbourhoods who serve the pilgrims.
A month before the festival starts in the month of Vaishakh, many women and men from other parts of the district flock to Mohalla Sakhi Sarwer. Many rent houses and turn them into guest houses that will later welcome devotees. They offer their guest cheap accommodations, food, and sometimes cheap, and often unsafe, sex. They even employ local woman and men as sex-workers for the dhanda (prostitution) during the festival season.