Over the top

top of the world/bottom of the list

Kathmandu is one of the least liveable cities in the world, according to the just-released Economist Intelligence Unit’s latest ranking. Cities in Canada and Australia hog the top ten spots, with Vienna and Helsinki elbowing their way into the elite few.  Stability, healthcare, culture and environment, education and infrastructure are ranked, but cost of living is not. Who, really, can afford to live in these ‘liveable’ cities, where no doubt, real estate prices will have further reason to skyrocket following the publication of rankings such as these. And of course, what is not ranked is how dull and boring these liveable cities might be, how lacking in spice.

The “greatest” cities, London (54th position), and New York in (56th) do badly on the EIU ranking, pulled down by their “stability” factor (or lack thereof). With fear and insecurity amongst the citizenry on a high, the vibrancy and appeal of these legendary metropolises don’t stand a chance. And Mumbai, whose fantasy status in most Southasian hearts is unchallenged to date, is ranked 117. If livability was put at premium, would Mohammad Rafi have crooned the immortal “Aye dil hai mushkil jeena yahan Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bombay meri jaan”. (gist being: Bombay is tough, man, but it’s my heart!).

A staunch Delhi-phobe, I wonder how it is that a wretched city like Delhi has not been relegated to the bottom of list, as the least liveable of cities? It has scored comparatively higher than it’s counterparts in Southasia, at 113, better than Colombo (132), Kathmandu (133), Karachi (135), and Dhaka (138). The only reason Kabul is not amongst the bottom 10 is that Afghanistan, like Iraq was not deemed fit to even rank.

While most Southasian cities are written off as notorious unliveable hell-holes, I must offer a defence of Rank No.133. And here are just some of the reasons:

1. Kathmandu offers a ring-side view of national politics, literally played out on the streets. The palpable excitement and the undeniable high of witnessing history being made wins over even the most hardened of souls. And everyone knows someone in power here.
2. You can discuss politics with the grocer, milkman, taxi driver, and several activists of various political parties and be privy to as many different views.
3. Walking around the city (because of a bandh, a traffic jam or because you like it), keeps you fit and alert.
4. When the haze and dust clears (more often than the cynics tell you), you get stupendous views of snow-capped peaks from your office window or the roof of your home. On a clear day you can even see the Sagarmatha (really).
5. You get organic produce in every street corner… mostly everything is organic anyway. Not to mention exotica like asparagus and tofu at every corner sabziwalla.
6. You can get gourmet cuisine in the most fancy of restaurants for the most unfancy of prices. And everything is discounted and bargainable, including in the malls. The price on the tag is designed to make you feel good that you’re getting it so cheap.
7. You can call up a friend (who is more often than not free for the evening) and go for a movie at 10 minutes notice (and usually get tickets when you saunter in).
8. You can catch up on reading and other offline activities like playing carom and ludo with the kids during load shedding hours. You can contemplate the stars, hear the birds and even hear yourself think.
9. Your kids can play in the lane with no fear of being run over by maniacal youngsters behind the wheels. They can go unaccompanied to the corner store, and the only reason they are not back immediately is that they are playing with the shop-owner’s baby, not because they have been abducted.
10. When your kids throw up in a micro-bus, splattering half-digested momos all around, co-passengers coo all over the little tots “Ah naaani,” they go, with generous offers of tissues and water, rather than draw their pistols and throw you and your nauseous kids out.

The list can go on. Suffice it to say, “Kathmandu meri jaan”.

FROM THE ARCHIVE: Our October 2008 double issue on Cities
	‘Golden cities, golden towns’ by Madhusree Dutta Is a megalopolis such as Bombay defined by its neighbourhoods, or is it the other way around
	‘The Valley’s relentless growth’ by Kabita Parajuli Struggling under poor-to-nonexistent urban planning, while massive numbers of Nepalis continue to descend on it, and hemmed in by the valley rim – what will happen to  Kathmandu Valley?
‘The pampered Islamabadites’ by Raza Rumi Despite regular criticism of its detachment from the rest of the country, Pakistan’s planned capital is fast turning into a metropolis.
	‘Is there war in your ur?’ by S Sumathy Jaffna remains in the hearts of many, whatever remains of the city and peninsula itself.

–Laxmi Murthy